One of the most prolific contractors during the war was John Martin of New York City, a skilled businessman whose firm provided a wide variety of items. His numerous contracts included blankets, coveralls, overcoats, fatigue blouses, shelter tents, artillery and cavalry jackets, infantry uniform coats and jackets, army hats, and of course both infantry and mounted service trousers. His trouser contracts alone accounted for a total of 785,000 pairs of infantry and 230,0000 pairs of mounted. Martin is recorded as having produced clothing for New York, Cincinnati, and St. Louis depots, making his garments perhaps the most wide-spread behind Schuylkill Arsenal.
Wambaugh, White & Company’s reproduction J.T. Martin trousers are copied from a pair in a private collection and feature side-seam pockets and the trapezoidal rear gusset common in other original examples. While it’s a common misconception that Martin trousers were “completely” machine-sewn, their offering includes extensive interior hand work with long seams and exterior stitching by machine. An exact copy of Martin’s contract stamp and a numerical size stamp complete each pair.